Travel Log Contents
January
30 Jan The final stretch
22 Jan Dropping Altitude
11 Jan Party Time
1 Jan We're gonna party like it's your birthday
December
17 Dec Machu Picchu
November
30 Nov Inca Power
16 Nov The wheels on the bus go...
12 Nov La Paz
October
27 Oct Altiplano Adventures
19 Oct Sucre
12 Oct Deep in the Earth
5 Oct Whiteout
September
28 Sep A Farewell to Chile
20 Sep Crackling Salt Cathedrals
15 Sep Trouble With the Law
July
23 Jul Surf's Up!
13 Jul Desert Trek
7 Jul Red Red Wine
June
27 Jun Santiago!
21 Jun Well I've been through the desert...
14 Jun Drag Race!
8 Jun A Few Days in Temuco
5 Jun Out of the Wild
May
31 May A Turning Point
April
30 Apr Survivors and Santiago
6 Apr Surprises Around Every Corner
March
23 Mar Rest and Recovery
15 Mar It's Still Raining
10 Mar Beginning the Carretera
February
17 Feb The End of the Pampas
1 Feb We sell our bikes and buy a car!
January
27 Jan Daniel Saws a Bull in Half
21 Jan The Towers of Pain!!
11 Jan Provincia de la Ultima Esperanza
4 Jan Feliz Navidad
December
25 Dec Adios Tierra del Fuego
15 Dec ...and we're off!
7 Dec Not in Kansas Anymore
November
29 Nov Shakedown Ride
7 Nov Daniel in Utah
October
28 Oct Viva la Visa!
21 Oct BBQ Chicken and Leg Cramps
September
23 Sep Back to School
11 Sep Training Day: Philadelphia
August
23 Aug West Virginia Cave Trip
April
20 Apr 100 Mile Training Ride
February
15 Feb 50 Mile Training Ride
10 Feb Introductions

Blogroll

A Summary of Sorts

Back to The Towers of Pain!!
By Dan Wallace - 2009-01-21

In this summary of our latest happenings in the land of Chile, let me start by explaining how much we are learning about time management, commitments, and flexibility. We planned to be in the town of Puerto Natales for about two days (time management), and we planned to use the internet for updating purposes and the like and then move on (commitment). We ended up staying in town with friends for a 3 days, then backpacking around the local national park (Los Torres del Paine) for 3 days where two of us (Daniel and myself) got severely sick from drinking the river water, and after resting/hanging-out for another 5 days with our new friends (FLEXIBILITY).

Two months ago I think every member of the team would have had major problems with this type of operation; but we have since decided that our mission down here is that of discovery. We desire to discover the people, cultures, history, land, food, and so on; thus, we think that planning for 2 days and ending up with close to 2 weeks is just fine!

This conclusion is bolstered further when we recline in the couches of our hosts sipping amaretto tea and realize that most adventures like us are not given the same authentic experiences through local people that we are given. Our flexibility often rewards us with unique views into the people, culture and history of the area we happen to be in, which is exactly what we need to accomplish our goal of education through adventure.

Upon or arrival into the town of Puerto Natales we split up to into two teams in order to acquire the lay of the land. Mike and I went together and within minutes of riding around town we were given a few offers by hostel owners. One particularly annoying proprietor drives around in his truck for most of the day looking for people "new to town". After our fourth hostel offer we concluded that a big part of this town’s business came from tourists. The outdoor stores, outfitters and tourist centers are everywhere. I sometimes felt that there were more backpackers walking the streets than local "Puerto Natalians".

Daniel eventually found out where we might be able to meet some people that knew our friends from Punta Arenas. Within 5 hours we were eating dinner at Pastora Eva’s house and later we were all delt out like cards to different families who volunteered to put us up for the night. Daniel and Chris went home with Samuel Conterras and his family, Mike went home with a man named Miguel and his family, and I went home with the newly married couple of Rene and Carolina.

The next day we all met back at the church to hang out with Eva and made plans to use the internet and see the city a bit. Daniel took a bus back to Punta Arenas to buy a new back wheel and came back late that night. The next day there was a going-away party for Eva (she was leaving Puerto Natales for Chile Chico) which we all attended. Great food and great company are often the theme for any large get together in Chile. Also on this day the team and we introduced ourselves to the church body during their 6 p.m. service. We even sung a song after which many people in the congregation commented on how beautiful it sounded (nobody knew what it meant because we sung it in English, however).

Over the next two days we made plans to take a bus out to los Torres del Paine, the big national park that is the main attraction around here. Samuel got some of his friends to donate four nice hiking packs to us so we were all set.

The bus ride out felt so good! We covered in three hours what would have taken us two days on the bikes! The first day was fun but hard. My shoulders were not accustomed to so much weight but my legs felt strong. Daniel’s knee was still sore from a fall he took in the city of Punta Arenas so we took it kind-of slow. The Towers were glorious, easily the most magnificent view I’ve every seen. For me to sit under such a spectacle was to feel like an ant looking up at the Sear’s Tower. Completely daunting and awesome.

As I mentioned earlier, Daniel and I were drinking a lot of river water and got sick. Daniel and Mike headed back the second day after seeing the Towers, and Chris and I pushed on for another two days towards Glacier Grey until my fever hit about 102 and I was just about dead. I had forgotten how awful a bad fever can be and as I was shivering lying on my back on the floor of the bus back to town (no seats left), I realized how valuable a mother’s love is when your sick. I wanted nothing more than to be on a couch in my parent’s house with my mom close by, keeping me warm, bringing me water, and watching my temperature with a gentle hand on my burning forehead. But I was almost as far away as I could be from this, and had to weather the chills, aches and destroyed gastro-intestinal system alone.

Two days later, and after much care from Samuel and his wife Laticia, Daniel and I were back on our feet. We even had enough energy to go with Samuel and Laticia to a type of local rodeo where Gauchos ride broncos! The twice a year event got rained out unfortunately. We also took a day with Samuel to see the cave of the Milodons and do some salmon fishing!

Now we are making plans to leave, probably tomorrow, Jan. 21st. Our time here has been awesome. We’ve learned lots of new jokes in Spanish, made lots of new friends, and refined our route according to the great information everyone has given us. Thanks to the great people of this town we will always have a home in Puerto Natales – a home I plan to visit again soon.

Peanut Gallery

(No Subject)

berisgm 2009-01-21 19:38:06 UTC

Hey Dan!

Tell us more about the fishing down there!

Dad Beris

good writing

ssh 2009-01-21 19:51:37 UTC

Hi Guys,

Some excellent photos and travelogue. Chris, you sounded downright poetic describing the physical and psychological geography.

Were you drinking untreated river water or had you used some purification system. If so, why did it fail to filter/kill-off the microscopic nasties?

Interesting to watch your evolution from schedule driven to more relaxed. Several people here at IEC (Chris’s old shop) said weeks ago that you weren’t going to meet your goal at this pace. I guess it depends on the goal…..Seems like you are redefining it as you go along.

Vaya con juevos

Steve

Better than Pat?

dannydukes86 2009-01-22 22:38:33 UTC

Danielson,

Stay out of the way, you’re living the dream! Sorry to here about the severe illness. Sometimes you just need the stomach of a Chilean….or Mexican. I love the whole "dealt as cards" ordeal. It reminded me of our freshman year with Pat. The only question is….did you meet an crippled people?

-Proximus

Giardia

margaretirenewallace 2009-01-23 20:40:40 UTC

Danzo—

I’m glad your team is easing up on the rigidity and letting it all happen. Isn’t giardia fun? I’m glad you’re better, but consider that you even had those great memories of mom taking care of us when we were down, not everyone does! I love you!

(No Subject)

Linsmartha 2009-01-24 13:07:54 UTC

Glad to hear that you and Daniel are feeling better. I apprecieate you filling in on all the "other stuff." Your journaling completes our mental picture :).

(No Subject)

bdette75 2009-01-24 17:11:05 UTC

Hola!

Glad you are on your way again! Dan..I wish I could have been there to take care of you. I praise God that compassionate locals took my place.

You are all becoming excellent writers!! Keep up the great work.

I do believe this will turn into an amazing book and movie deal down the road!!

Love to all my sons,

Mom Wallace

H2O and Such

bluechord12 2009-01-25 14:19:47 UTC

So you drank the water and got a wee bit of a fever. Remember when I participated in that medical study so I could earn $100??? Yup, had a fever of 103 shortly after, and then had a v-ball tournament with Bux-Mont. Ahh..I remember the look on Dad’s face when Mom told him my tempature, because he had to help coach our team that day…wasn’t really worried about my fever because I was sure he was going to kill me right then and there.

Anywho, I could tell you a bunch of Army mumbo-jumbo about "survival"....but honestly I don’t know that much. With that said, ‘if it looks bad, don’t touch it, if it looks good, definetly don’t touch it cause it’s probably really bad’. Wow, I’ve been rambling. But I just wanted to jump on here, hopefully get a few laughs, and let you know I am truly envious of what you and these guys are doing. I’m pretty much going to have to be the first Wallace to enter Space just to top this. Awesome. Alright DWalls, soldier on, and make sure you keep stopping to smell the roses.

Sincerely,

BWalls

(No Subject)

jon_goertz 2009-01-27 22:40:38 UTC

Wow! That picture of the towers is amazing!-jon

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