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 The Terrain AboveBack to Provincia de la Ultima EsperanzaBy Mike Beris - 2009-01-11
The pampas: thousands and thousands of square miles of low hills, spotted sheep ranches, clusters of grass. The wind is so fierce that little vegetation thrives here. Only small, thorny bushes, and short trees that look as though they are permanently in a wind tunnel.
The gradual hills only provide false hope that there may possibly be something different to see on the other side.
But again and again, we descend (having to pedal downhill, thanks to the wind in our faces) to find the same view ahead of us as behind. It has a unique beauty, this barren, beaten land, but it is far more interesting and easy to appreciate the floating terrain on the flipside of the horizon.
The sky seems so much bigger, so much more a part of this place than the land, as if the whole landscape might suddenly tip over, topheavy from the deep blue mass above.
Exploding from the horizon, cumulus clouds challenge the might of the distant Andes. Not even vertical miles of rock and ice can overpower the glowing, flowing promontories of fluffy white cotton candy.
High above, transparent streaks of cirrus peak behind the monstrosities, equal in complexity, but far more fragile and refined. I trace their feathered edges with an imaginary paintbrush as my face toasts in the sunlight.
Bunkered down in the deep grass, I finally have some relief from the chilling wind and can appreciate the summer sun. It hides behind an altocumulus field, a mirror image of the tufts of grass, brush, and sheep in the endless countryside surrounding me.
Each time it reappears, I appreciate the sun´s warmth again and again, like a second and third serving of the rice Chris is making next to me.
Sooner than I’d like, its time to get back on the bike and continue the relentless battle against our invisible enemy. But the immensity of the blue sea above me, the distinctive complexity of each cloud, and the intermittent blast of heat from the sun remind me that the land’s desolation and wind’s fury are not the strongest characteristics of the nature surrounding me. 
Peanut Gallerythe wind, oh the windssh 2009-01-12 04:29:56 UTC
Hi Guys Your description of the ever present wind reminds me of stories I read about settlers in the prairies (pampas?) of the mid western US. Some of them were driven crazy by the incessant winds. The roar and force became a living being, always lurking out side their small cabins. Maybe you can understand that. Hey, I made polenta tonight as well. Used grits instead of corn meal. I grated cheeses into it and baked it after it was thick and smooth. Got crispy and bubbly. What do you mix into to flavor your polenta? Are the refugias supposed to be for sleeping or is that just your gringo invention out of necessity? Glad you found some friends to share the holidays with. Steve Hegedus (Newark DE) (No Subject)berisgm 2009-01-12 22:00:54 UTC
Mikey: Couldn’t help but notice that you make no mention of the "one particularly strong" wind gust that Dan wrote, "knocked Mike clear off his bike! ... and flung him down into the ditch." (The accompanying photo was interesting, as well.) I suppose the less details we know the better… but you know Mom will be concerned? Thank you Lord for that safe landing! Dad Good work so far!noavgjoe 2009-01-12 23:15:04 UTC
Guys, I love reading your updates. I’m excited for you all and can’t wait to see what the next few days hold for you. Stay strong, hopeful, and energetic! Joe (currently Annapolis, MD; formerly Bethlehem, PA) Mike!jselness 2009-01-13 18:43:33 UTC
Dude, have you thought about travel writing for a career? Between the prose and the pics, I’m almost there with you (minus the physical pain, hunger, etc.) :) Praying for ya. We head for PA in a moving van this coming weekend. Jesse Selness ThanksChris (From the team) 2009-01-21 19:08:56 UTC
Hey guys, thanks for the comments. Mr. B, don’t worry, it was a soft cushy landing. Steve, usually jelly, sometimes chicken, really whatever we have. Cheese sounds good. Hopefully we don’t go mad from the wind, spending time out of it this week was great. The PampasAnonymous 2009-01-22 19:10:32 UTC
Hi, We’re 4th graders from Pennsylvania. We are reading about the pampas in our reading class and we think it’s very interesting. Your pictures help us experience the story we’re reading and learn more about Argentina. The pampas doesn’t look anything like we imagined it would. We hope you have a good trip and keep up the good work! You’re awesome :) Thank you, The Fourth Grade GREAT JOBAnonymous 2009-01-26 23:33:43 UTC
YOU ROX!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
